TILING WALLS
When starting on a tiling project, plan the work carefully so that you can calculate the exact number of tiles you need and, more important, ensure that you cut as few tiles as possible to give a neat finish and so make the task easier. It is worth drawing up a plan of the wall on graph paper, marking out the area to be tiled. Always plan to position the finished edges of tiles along the exposed edge of the tiled area to give a neat finish. Tiles are fixed in place with tiling adhesive, available ready-mixed; use waterproof adhesives for splash backs. An adhesive spreader is usually included.
For cutting tiles, you will need a tile cutter (usually sold complete with cutting guide), and a tile snapper to break the tile along the line scored with the cutter. If you are cutting thick tiles, buy or hire a heavy- duty tile cutter. After fixing the tiles, they have to be grouted - the spaces between the tiles are finished with a cement-based, acrylic or epoxy filler to give an even surface.
The surface to be tiled must be suitable for tiling and properly prepared. Bare plaster walls give a perfect surface, but you can also tile over existing tiles. Firmly fixed wood and exterior grade plywood are also suitable but avoid using chipboard as a surface for tiling: the tiles are rarely entirely waterproof and chipboard will swell and 'blow' if it gets wet. When the tiling is completed, fill the angle at the bottom of the splash back with silicone or acrylic sealant to give a flexible joint. (When applying sealant, always push the nozzle of the tube away from you, rather than dragging it.)
TILING A SMALL AREA
Plan the tiling so that cut edges are not obvious. Where the tiles are over a basin, for example, try to use only whole tiles. If the width of the basin does not coincide with the width of the tiles, position cut tiles down the center of the tiled area. If the height of the tiled area is not an exact number of tiles, cut the bottom row of tiles. When tiling to the corner of a room, behind a bath or kitchen work surface for example, position the cut tiles in the corner. Apply the adhesive to the wall, covering an area about the size of six tiles. (You may be able to work in larger areas once you have had some practice.) Position the tiles along the level edge.
If the tiles have leveled edges, butt them together neatly. If they have straight edges, the job is easier if you use tile spacers; position one at each corner of each tile. Spacers ensure even gaps between the tiles giving a neat finish. Continue, until all the whole tiles are in position. To cut a thin tile, determine the cutting line and score the glazed surface of the tile using a jig. Place the tile over a slim pencil and press down firmly to snap the tile along the scored line.
To cut a thicker tile, score the cutting line and position the jaws of the snapping tool on either side of the marked line and squeeze to make a clean break. Use a tile sanding block to smooth the cut edges. To cut tiles to fit around awkward shapes, nibble at the area to be cut away with a pair of pincers after you have cut a template from paper and traced it on to the tile. When the whole area is tiled, leave the adhesive to set - normally at least 12 hours.
Then spread tile grout over the surface, paying particular attention to the gaps be- tween the tiles. Immediately clean the grout off the face of the tiles with a sponge, rinsing it out frequently, around the lower part of the area and around the top of the with part tiles. When dry, polish up the tiles. If you have to drill into fixings after they are laid, u speed and choose round or c non-rust screws. Place a piece of over the tile to prevent the drill s you work.
