Interior DECORATING
STENCILLING Interior walls
Traditionally stencils were cut from waxed card, brass or other metals; now they are also available in acetate sheets. Plastic is easy to clean after use and, being transparent, it is easy to align. Plastic and card stencils are available pre-cut, in sets, one sheet for each color in the pattern. Metal stencils are also available, but they are usually sold individually rather than in sets. These are long lasting, and there is less danger of damaging the stencil.
Printed stencils, which you cut yourself, are also available. If you have a steady hand, and an artistic streak, you can design and cut your own stencils from acetate or waxed card. A sharp stencil knife, a rubber 'self-healing' cutting mat and metal straightedge are essential tools. You can get a good effect by applying the same paints with a stubby stencil brush or sponge using ordinary emulsion or oil-based paint.
Mix the paint to a creamy consistency so that it will not clog the brush or sponge, but not so thin that it will run down behind the stencil. Tint water based emulsion with artist’s acrylic paints, and oil-based paint with artist's oils to achieve the required color. If you are painting woodwork, water-based paints will have to be protected with polyurethane varnish (matt or satin finish are best as the low level of reflection enhances the handy-work). If you have to mix colors to get the tones you want, mix enough for the whole room; it is difficult to repeat a color exactly.
There are also specially formulated quick-dry stenciling paints and crayons for use with acetate sheets. Paint the surface in the normal way before stenciling. Use a plumb line and spirit level to mark the position of the decoration, marking horizontal or vertical base lines for border patterns. 2 Using the stencil as a template mark the position of each corner along the length of the border, or around the position of each central motif.
These are known as registration marks and are vital to the planning and correct alignment of borders. Use blackboard chalk which will wipe off easily when you have finished. 3 Attach the stencil to the surface with masking tape, aligning it with the chalk marks. If you want to use the stencil to apply more than one color, use tape to mask the areas where the next color is to be applied. 4 Dip the stencil brush or sponge in the paint; hardly any paint is necessary - it should be almost dry.
When you are happy with the consistency, dab the paint on, working outwards from the middle of each cut-out. Don't feel that you have to make a solid block of color: part of the charm of stencils is the gentle, textured effect and variation in density of color from one motif to the next. 5 When the paint is dry to the touch, move the stencil on to the next marked position.
Wipe the paint from the stencil if necessary, and clean the brush or sponge if it is getting clogged with paint. If you find that the stencil overlaps the work you have just done, move on to the next but one position, and fill in the gaps once the paint has dried. When you have completed one color, you will find that the first motifs you applied are dry and you can start on the second color. Clean the stencil and brush thoroughly, then proceed in the same way.
