Interior designing and decoration by Visa travellers

Interior designing and decoration Tips and guidance for the home makeovers. For the industrial and commercial interior designing and decoration please contact us.

How to learn and discover interior designing and decoration?

How to minimize the costs of tools? Interiors at home, primarily considers some money saving ideas, while spending on Interior designing and decoration. Tools for the interior designing,sometimes cost more than the other interior products. Some tips on saving on tools given below.

TRADE. If you never use your router, find a friend or family member willing to trade you a tool you really need, such as a drill.   RENT. Some tools are costly to buy, yet you need them to achieve professional results or to get the work done in a reasonable amount of time. If you know you'll use a tool very infrequently, such as a floor sander rent it instead of buying.   

LEARN A NEW SKILL. If you enjoy handiwork and you want a workshop that's equipped to the nines, consider teaching yourself a new skill. Hire out your newly acquired talents and tools on weekends to earn dollars for your own room makeovers. Buy a high- quality diamond-tipped saw, for example; then cut marble and other rock-hard materials and tiles and install floors and countertops for some extra cash. You can also hire out skills/tools that you already have and then use the dollars to buy the new tools that you need.

Use this collection of insider's secrets inspired by the show to create high style without spending a bundle. Use items you already have on hand or treasures from flea markets or garage sales.  SALVAGE. Visit architectural salvage yards to find special features that will dress up your room, such as moldings, fireplace surrounds, columns, windows, doors, brackets, cabinets, hardware, sinks, and stair railings. Call demolition companies to find out if they are scheduled to tear down any old houses. They may let you into the house to rescue features for bargain prices. Also, keep an eye out for neighbors who are remodeling. They may have architectural pieces that they are willing to give away. Watch the curbs on garbage day-some people throwaway usable materials.  

MAP IT OUT. Maps, both old and new, provide inexpensive decorating material. Photocopy maps from an early 22 geography book and tack the copies to the walls for an interesting background. (You may be able to use wallpaper paste to secure maps to walls. Test a spot first to see if the paste smears the image.) Hang an antique school map as a window shade (or have a copy store photocopy a map onto canvas). Wrap each end of the map (or canvas photocopy) around a wooden dowel. Set the top wooden dowel inside roller-shade brackets mounted inside the window frame.   

FRAMED FIX-UP

 Less-than-perfect cabinets take on new character when you repaint and reface the doors with framed art, such as botanical prints, family photos, or pages torn from an old calendar. Drill pilot holes through the frames and into the doors; then secure the frames to the doors with drywall screws. If you grow weary of the image in the frame, undo the screws and substitute a new photo or print.  

TEATIME. Flea markets, garage sales, and even Grandma's attic are great places to find beautiful vintage tea towels, napkins, and aprons for only a few dollars each. Showcase your finds by stitching them into decorative pillows.  

LADDER DISPLAY. Use a pair of painted wooden brackets to hang a vintage ladder horizontally on the wall. Drape the ladder legs with antique quilts or vintage linens or install hooks for hanging teacups or other collectibles. for the bathroom Throughout this book, the "10 Must-Haves" list the most-needed, most-wanted features in various rooms. Use these lists to help you choose the elements you want. Following are the top 10 features an ideal bath would offer:

 The perfect color scheme. A flattering and soothing or cheerful color scheme helps you start the day out right. 1. Counter space. Dual vanities are all the rage, so work them in if at all possible. If your bath won't accommodate two vanities, consider adding a second vanity in the bedroom. 1. Storage. Maximize the storage you have with organizational tools, such as wire bins and divider trays. If possible add open helves and more cupboards. Update cabinet exteriors with new paint or stain and new hardware and moldings.

Mirrors. The bath is the only room designed for primping, and mirrors enhance the opportunity. Purchase large mirrors that fit your budget and style; they'll make this small room feel larger. 1. Task lighting. Good task lighting helps keep you out of the shadows. You'll look better and you'll see better for everyday routines such as shaving or brushing your teeth.

 Sunlight. Natural light is the best light for primping. Take advantage of the sunlight the room already enjoys by using strategically placed window treatments and mirrors. 1. Privacy. Choose window treatments that will protect your right to privacy. 1. Extra outlets. Hair dryers, electric razors, curling irons, and rollers all need to be plugged in, and occasionally, you want them all plugged in at once. 1. Fluffy towels and enough bars or hooks to hang them on.

Being able to use as many big, fluffy towels as you want is a luxury you owe yourself. If you install enough towel bars or hooks, your housemates and guests might actually consider using them. 10. Candles. These wax wonders are great to have on hand when you want to indulge in a luxurious soak.  

Media FILE. Filing cabinets are a necessary evil, and usually these metal monsters aren't pretty. Place same-size cabinets side by side and conceal them with a slipcover. (Watch for affordable fabric remnants or vintage tablecloths at flea markets, garage sales, and auctions.) Position the covered cabinets beside your desk to serve as an additional surface for office-related items as well as for books and treasures on display.

If you don't sew, join the seams of the slipcover with iron-on fusible hem tape. Or avoid the task of making hems entirely by using tablecloths instead. Drape the tops of the cabinets with a suitably sized tablecloth; then add a second tablecloth (folded in half lengthwise) as a skirt. Use adhesive-backed hook-and-Ioop tape to secure the skirt around the tops of the filing cabinets.  

Floor model interior designing and decoration Tips and guidance

Offer a lower price and see what happens. Most stores are eager to clear out damaged goods.  

 Buyer beware

 Keep in mind that damaged goods are often sold "as is," meaning no warranty, no returns, and definitely no refunds.   Sleuth out other damaged goods. Damaged goods aren't always labeled or placed in a designated area. Sometimes you'll find less-than-perfect items on the shelves with the good stuff. Point out the damage to the salesperson and find out if the store will offer a discount. 

WHERE: Building Supplies Recyclers and Salvage Yards WHY: Some communities accept, store, and sell used lumber, heet  goods, hardwood flooring, windows, doors, cabinetry, and other materials and supplies.

TIPS: Check local listings. Turn to the phone directory first and call around to find salvage yards in your area. If you can't find a listing in the phone book, waste collection companies may be able to tell you who is recycling building supplies in your area.   Bring wheels. If you'll be moving anything heavy, bring along a dolly, a wheelbarrow, or a wheeled cart to ease the chore.   Bring bigger wheels. Drive a vehicle that can transport what you buy. If you don't own a pickup, borrow or rent one for the job.  

Think differently. An architectural element that you discover can be used for something other than its original purpose. Old doors and windows, for example, make interesting decorative accents. WHAT: Floor Models WHY: If you don't mind that several thousand people have opened and closed that dish waher or refrigerator door over several weeks or months, you may be able to purchase the appliance from the home center for much less than retail. The same goes for furniture floor models at department and furniture stores.

TIPS: Ask if floor model appliances, plumbing fixtures and fittings, cabinetry, countertops, and furniture are for sale.   Find the clearance center. Many national chains designate one retail location per region as the destination for all unsold clearance items and floor models from the stores in the area. Ask a manager at your favorite retailer if a regional clearance store exists in your area. WHAT: Discontinued Lines WHY: Manufacturers and retailers want to unload discontinued items to make way for new seasonal lines.

 TIPS: Ask employees if discontinued models are available. They'll often take you to a back room or special section designated for discounted merchandise.   Keep watching. Discount stores introduce, promote, reduce the price of, and discontinue new product lines quite quickly, sometimes within a matter of weeks. Shop your favorite stores frequently and pay attention to product lines you like. When the line goes on sale or clearance, buy up the remaining items at a significant discount. Many of your shopping trips will include forays to find the right tool You need certain tools all the time--a hammer and a drill, for example. Other tools are rarely used and yet crucial to particular projects. Stretch your budget with these ideas:   BORROW. After all, what are neighbors for? Why buy a reciprocating saw when you plan to remove only one stud wall in your lifetime?   

LIBRARIES AND BOOKSTORES - Interior designing and decoration tips and guidance

LIBRARIES AND BOOKSTORES

 How-to books

 Look for reliable publishers and check out books on projects.

Magazine articles

Find titles you trust and skim articles for ideas. Check out or purchase publications that offer specific projects or techniques you plan to incorporate.   

CONTINUING EDUCATION

Lectures

Watch newspapers for announcements about visiting authors. Attend their lectures to gather information and advice on how-to and decorating topics.

Internet access

 Libraries usually provide free Internet accessory decoration on classes. Through the colleges and kills master other How-to- all for very little money. t with the Teachers are after class to instructing. Additional insiders glean tips and ideas.

Other students

You may find some students who knowledgeable about are Have your topic of interest, a cup of coffee with a few good prospects and ideas. Discover some D Helpful texts. The books that instructors choose to augment their courses be affordable and may, to worthwhile additions your do-it-yourself library, high-speed lines. If you don't have a home computer or have a slower dial- up connection, a visit to the library can kick your online research or purchasing into high gear.

Videos/software

 Libraries often have extensive how-to video and software collections.  

Fabric STORES and match. Need help combining various fabrics, Prints? For many colors, a fabric store employees, matching fabrics mixing is second nature.

Fabric selection

Ask the employees to help you’re window treatments or you for the sturdiest buys upholstery projects.

 INTERNET HELPERS

Teens and college students

 Young people need jobs; you need help. Strike a bargain and gain a helper.

 Trade with neighbors

Help your neighbors paint; maybe they'll help you install tile. o Have a party. Invite a group of friends to a painting party. Feed them well. o Barter with a pro. For example, if you don't own the tools to build helves but have sewing skills, make a deal with a carpenter who needs slipcovers.

Pins or sales

Employees

Barg in can point out good buys bargain bins and tell you the will be when the next sale.

Fabric stores often the latest in turns, have Seek to •bins, and buttons. P TI to find out store employees what’s new. The fabric store can't sew is still the place to go. Ask employees now to adapt you’re to no-sew projects.

Ideas

Do-it-yourself websites, personal home pages, and message boards

The Internet overflows with information on decorating projects and techniques. Read from a variety of sources and be on the alert for misinformation.

Associations

 Go to association websites, such as for heet goods manufacturers, to access an abundance of quality how-to information.

Manufacturers

 Their websites often feature tips on selecting and using products. Many manufacturer websites now include calculators to figure how much of a material you need; they may also feature interactive mini-programs that let you paint a room, try out new flooring, and do other virtual makeovers.

Retailers

Retailers sometimes offer online articles that serve up great decorating ideas. Seasonal and online-only sales are available around-the-clock. o Magazine- and book-related web pages. Your favorite magazines and book publihers often have complementary websites to augment the advice and projects offered in their printed publications. Bargains aplenty are out there if you know where to look. Often hunting down supplies, materials, and other elements for your makeover, consider the following resources and tips.

Thrift Stores (Goodwill, Salvation Army, and a variety of local outlets provide a wealth of used items at great prices.) WHY: These stores offer some of the most fun and rewarding shopping experiences around.

 TIPS: Visit often to check for newly stocked items, such as upholstered pieces that are ready to slipcover and coffee tables, end tables, and dining chairs that are ready to paint.   WHERE: Flea Markets WHY: Flea markets are often vast and crowded; however, the bargains lurking there make the hunt worthwhile. TIPS: Visit flea markets to find unusual accessories, furnishings, and vintage linens and fabric remnants.   Learn how to negotiate prices with vendors. Ask politely, "Is this your best price?" or "Could you do better on this price for me?" With this approach you'll likely receive a lower price.   Learn to let go. If you can't get a great deal on a particular item, let it go. In most cases something equally good-if not better-will Always keep your eyes open for a great buy.

 You never know when you'll encounter a sidewalk, garage, or warehouse sale. Turn up at another booth or flea market.  Bring supplies with you. If possible bring along strong canvas or plastic shopping bags to carry all your purchases. -Plan your transportation. Travel to flea markets in a vehicle large enough to carry your purchases home. If you don't own a van or truck (and don't want to rent one), ask a dealer who won't budge on price if you can get free delivery or shipping.  Bargain with a buddy.

Sometimes dealers will give you a better deal on an item if you and your friend purchase multiple items from their booths, especially if the two of you pay with one check or credit card. WHERE: Damaged Freight Area WHY: Some home centers, furniture stores, and appliance outlets (as well as other types of specialty stores) offer damaged freight at reduced prices.

TIPS: Call around. Save gas money and time by using the phone to find out which stores in your area sell damaged freight.   Patience is a virtue. Be willing to sort through a stack of sinks, layers of counter tops, boxes of ceramic tiles, or dozens of doors, for example, and you may find what you want with only minor damage that's nearly invisible-for 50 to 75 percent off the retail price.   

affordable Interior designing and decoration - Tips and guidance - Free consultation

THE SITUATION: 

A young boy's small bedroom FOCUS: Who could miss the primary purch.a.se that dominates this space? Two halves of real cars make this bedroom a little boy's dream come true. One car holds a bed in its trunk, and the second car is waiting to be equipped to serve as a toy box. (Doug ran out of time to finish this part of the project.) The background and accents play an important secondary role in the room; for example, a toy car zooms along a painted highway on one wall.

DESIGNER: He THE SITUATION: A plain white family room FOCUS: The background takes the lead role in this design scheme. He uses dozens of vinyl records with colorful labels to establish a fun and funky theme. A trip to the thrift store yielded this one-of-a-kind look for a mere $60. DESIGNER: Gen THE SITUATION: A family room in a new house with a cookie- cutter fireplace.

FOCUS: A French poster proved a stylish beginning for this accent- focused family room: Gen repeats black from the diva's dress throughout the room and carries the golden yellow poster background to the walls. Other special artwork and accents draw the eye around the room.

THE SITUATION

A family room with a white stucco fireplace that doesn't suit the house FOCUS: Slate tiles are the starring primary purcha.se in this family room; He rehabs a homely fireplace with a new slate facade to create a striking focal point. The fireplace is now a favorite gathering spot, so the slate was a good investment.

THE SITUATION:

 A family room with no special focal point FOCUS: A background of torn scraps of brown paper glued to the walls launches a rustic Old West-inspired setting. The black-painted gunslingers silhouette becomes the playfully exciting focal point. DESIGNER: Edward THE Situation: A small but promising space occupied by college-age guys FOCUS: Snowboards earn a prominent place on the wall alongside a funky green lava lamp. A vibrant purple backdrop pairs up with a deep red band of color along the baseboard to make these hip accents pop.

The focus of a room can be changed easily. Bring out the background, for example, with the addition of a dramatically different coat of paint. Divide your room makeover into phases, and you can complete the room more affordable by paying as you go. The job is less intimidating too if you break it into these manageable bites. Follow along as Trading Spaces shows you how with ideas from past episodes!   

Purchasing Goods with Bargain for interior designing and decoration - Tips and guidance

PRIMARY PURCHASE

Sometimes your primary purchase will logically serve as the focus of the room; the bed in a master bedroom is one good example. (The bed in a guest bedroom, however, doesn't have to be the focal point. Instead a writing desk or small sitting area may get the spotlight.) If the bed will be the most important object in your bedroom makeover, then treat it as such, as Frank did in San Diego: Duenda Road, below center.

 There, moldings and long swaths of fabric surround the bed, giving it due prominence. Invest in a spectacular footboard and headboard if you wish. Or put your dollars toward high-quality line, an ultra-thick comforter, and armloads of plush pillows. Employ accents to draw more attention to the bed. Hang an impressive piece of artwork above the headboard, for example, or invest in an amazing canopy with yards of luxurious fabric draped all around the bed.

 Kia employs a sea hell-inspired bed to create a fabulous focal point for the room.  He makes it and it-foot-long sofa-swathed in yards of pink python.

Print vinyl-the star of her room.

 ACCENTS

 It's easy to think of accents and accessories as the jewelry you might use to dress up a simple black dress. Arrange a few decorative boxes, a vase, and some books on a console table, and you've added enough detail to take the look beyond ordinary. If you're a collector, however, the small things may be the most important items in your room. In an office in Vegas: Smoke-Mont Court, below right, Edward put the focus on a musician's instruments by placing them in prominent locations-even hanging a guitar on the wall and shining a spotlight on it.

You may decide to keep your backgrounds subtle and spend your dollars on a primary purchase designed to showcase your collections. For example, purchase plenty of helves or a handsome display cabinet with well-planned lighting to show off your treasures. You'll find two great examples of accents in action in this book: Doors and doorknobs become the theme of a great- room designed by XXX.

 Now see if you're able to spot whether the background, the primary purchase, or the accents are the main focus. 

Interior designing and decoration with a purpose

 If you have a nest egg waiting in the wings, congratulations! Figure out a short list of most-desirable splurges-for example, an armoire and a fireplace-and make those special purchases. Continue to use the advice and ideas in this book to keep your budget in check. That way, you'll have cash left for a great vacation after all the work is done! Any great play features three components: a terrific set, charismatic stars, and talented supporting players.

When you set out to do a room makeover, think of your room as a stage and consider the key elements that will appear there: The background is your stage set, the primary purchase is your star, and the accents are supporting actors. You'll learn how to balance and layer these elements so your makeover stays on budget and achieves marvelous style.

Broadway producer has to decide where to invest the budget. Will the bulk of the bucks go toward the star's paycheck? Or will this play be known for its breathtaking sets? 

Perhaps an important supporting role will require a well-paid actor. As an investor in your own little home production, you get to decide where to funnel the finances-or how to slice the decorating pie, above, so to speak. The decorating pie can be sliced in a variety of ways, depending on your goals and interests. To allocate your budget, consider the pieces of the pie and decide how big you'd like each piece to be: BACKGROUND.

Think of your room as an empty stage waiting for the set director (that's you!) to make the transformation. What role do you want the four walls, the ceiling, and the floor to play? Do you want them to serve as the driving force of the room with brilliant painted hues, powerful pattern, or glimmering metallic leaf? Or do you want the background to be quiet and understated? Your answer will depend on your ultimate goals for the room.

Consider the players that will comes onstage next-your primary purchase, such as a large sofa or a bed, and the accessories and accents you want to add to the scheme. 

If you know you want a drop-dead gorgeous sofa to be the highlight of the room, for example, downplay the background and invest a good chunk of your cash in your primary purchase. The walls can still sport great color; find a bold color chip and then take it down a notch or two to let the sofa stand in the spotlight. If you're reusing an existing sofa and you're not thrilled with its look, choose a sophisticated solid-color slipcover and invest in a dramatic pattern or color on the walls, ceiling, and floor. 

For example, in Mississippi: Winsmere Way, below left, He dressed the walls of a bedroom in dramatic red toilet fabric-with results that are well worth the significant expense. A bed, sofa, and decorative items in the room take on lesser roles.

The sofa- a thrift store find-helped stay on budget. A curving armoire that was custom-built to keep costs down adds grandeur to the room without upstaging the walls. We transform an ordinary office into a handsome library retreat by dressing the walls in moldings and various shades of green and brown. 

Budgetary controls in interior designing and decoration - tips and guidance for he best interiors

Whether a designer loses track of the budget or runs out of time to return a few items, the result is the same. In seasons, the overspending had to be paid out of the designer's pocket to the host. In season: Family, however, the designer must remove items from the room to ensure the redesign is within the spending limit. 

Although you may not hear much about the budget until the end of an episode, in the real world you need to determine your budget up front and keep a close eye on how much you're spending throughout the process.

The designers do this too; the cameras focus more on the action and entertainment of the makeovers and less on the planning. To figure out how much money you'll need for supplies and materials, turn to the "Budget Workshop". This collection of tips, worksheets, and calculators will help you peg down costs before you shop, so you'll know how much cash you realistically need to get the job done.

Also check out the cast of characters, opposite, and see if you recognize anyone. Though the personality descriptions are tongue- in-cheek, you'll find some nuggets of truth in them. Use what you discover about your money attitudes to help keep spending in check or to encourage yourself to spend a little more freely, depending on your budgeting character.

Then, with your own budget and spending style in mind, turn the pages to learn how to decorate in layers and phases. You may recognize yourself in one or two of these characters. Make an honest assessment and use what you learn to improve your budget decisions. 

Low Cost Furniture Ideas for Interior designing and decoration

Interior designing and decoration needs to meet the budgets of the small makeover owners. Business houses and professional interior designers make it big for the luxurious interiors to show their strength in the interiors of big business houses and corporate businesses. But the home owners may want otherwise to make the interior better with a small budget. We give you some cost controlling measures here.   

LOW COST Furniture

 Sometimes the biggest bang comes with the smallest price tag. For example, black and white photocopies of lighthouse photographs provide graphic punch.

FOCUSED COST

The Moov Group designers also know how to invest their decorating dollars in exactly the right places to produce the most impact. Make note of the brick-look flooring installed in a chic Florida living room. Brick, stone, tile, or hardwood flooring is a major investment; however, in the right place, a great-looking floor can yield big design results for years to come. Hamlet said, "The play's the thing." Turn the page for a little fun comparing your makeover to a Broadway production.

 First get familiar with the characters and discover your budgeting habits. Next learn how to set the stage. Then see if you can identify the players in action and discover ways to finish projects affordable in phases. Study the checklists for tips on where to find advice and for free or at low, low prices-and where to hunt for bargains. Finish up by browsing through a gallery of flea market fix-ups; let them be the muse for your next decorating play.

Fortunately, funding a room makeover isn't nearly as costly as bankrolling a Broadway production. Producing a play and producing a dramatic room makeover are projects that do have some similarities, however. Find out if you fit somewhere in the cast of characters, opposite, then read on to learn how you can set the stage for dramatic style and rave reviews-all within your budget.

Get ready, because the curtain is going up! It's near the end of a typical Moov Group episode, and Paige is visiting with one of the designers: "I have bad news," he says, frowning. "You've gone over budget." Sometimes the designer's eyes open wide in surprise; more often, the designer sighs and admits, "I know." 

SEWING TECHNIQUES ZIP INSERTION - Interior designing and decoration tips and guidance

SEWING TECHNIQUES ZIP INSERTION 

For furnishing items, use metal zips where there will be considerable strain, on a loose cover, for example, and nylon ones on cushion covers.

To center the zip, as on the welt in a boxed cushion, tack the seam and press open. Pin the zip in place, face down over the center of the seam, and machine or hand stitch. Unpick the tacking stitches. Turn to the right side and top stitch to secure and strengthen (1). If the zip is enclosed, before inserting it, stitch the zip tapes at the top of the zip together by hand and sew across both ends by machine when the zip is in place.

INVISIBLE ZIP INSERTION 

To insert a zip along a piped seam or where no stitching is to be seen on the finished article, open the zip and place the teeth right side down against the piping or away from the raw edge. Sew the zip tape to the seam allowance with the zipper foot about 3 mm (t in) from the teeth. Close the zip and open out the seam allowance on the other piece of fabric. Place the folded edge against the teeth as before and pin. Sew 3 mm (t in) from the fold and then sew across the end of the zip to the piping (2). If you are inserting a zip in sheer fabrics or in a nap fabric such as velvet, sew it by hand, using a prick-stitch. For a lapped zip, use the same method, but adjust stitching position as shown (3).

MACHINE QUILTING 

Before you begin to quilt you must decide on the quilting design.

There are many traditional designs; equally straight or wavy lines worked with a machine can be just as effective. Mark the design with dressmaker's chalk, or decide on the widths of the panels - for a traditional eiderdown, for example - or use the pattern on the fabric. Quilting is always done on a sandwich of layers, varying in thickness, so the first thing to do is to join these layers with tacking stitches so all your quilting work isn't ruined because the layers drift and pucker. Press the fabric pieces (not the padding). 

The lines of tacking should run in a different direction to the lines of stitching: for diagonal quilting, tack the fabric in a grid along and across the grain of the fabric, spacing the lines of stitching about 10 cm (4 in) apart. Use the same technique for outline quilting. For striped fabric, tack across the strips.

 If you are quilting by machine, mark the lines of quilting using dressmaker's chalk. Most machines have a quilting foot which holds the fabric flat as you sew. Always sew in the same direction to prevent puckering. 

Select the appropriate needle for the work. Use a loose, long machine stitch and reduce the pressure on the presser foot. Guide the fabric through the machine, keeping the layers together and taking care not to make any tucks where the lines of stitching cross. Roll up the fabric so that it will fit under the arm of the sewing machine as you work across the fabric. To quilt by hand, use a sharp or crewel needle and a thread similar to the top fabric. The stitches should be about 2-3 mm (-to- in) long and as even as possible.

You can use different stitches; the most common are back stitch and running stitch. If the layers are thick and bulky, stab the needle through vertically, not at an angle. The stitches must be neither too close nor too far apart; the padded effect will be lost if the stitches are too close together, and the layers will not be held firmly if the stitches are too far apart. If you prefer to work in small areas and join the work after the quilting has been done, butt the wadding layers together and secure with a herringbone stitch (1). 

Fold back one edge of the main fabric by 2 cm (   in) and cover the other raw edge. Pin down the length of the join. Turn the quilt over and do the same with the backing fabric. Join the seams invisibly (2) or machine stitch down the seam and continue the quilting design across the join. For a reversible seam on ready-quilted fabric, unpick about 3 cm (11 in) on either side of the edges to be joined. Join the fabric layers as described above. After sewing the seam, continue the quilting across the seam.

SEWING ZIP-INVISIBLE ZIP-Interior designing and decoration tips and guidance on Sewing Technics

SEWING ZIP

For furnishing items, there will be considerable sera cover, for example, and nylon covers. To center the zip, as 01 boxed cushion, tack the seam a Pin the zip in place, face down of the seam, and machine Unpick the tacking stitches.

To side and top stitch to secure and! If the zip is enclosed, before stitch the zip tapes at the top of it by hand and sew across both en when the zip is in place.

INVISIBLE ZIP

To insert a zip along a piped seal stitching is to be seen on the fi open the zip and place the down against the piping or away edge. Sew the zip tape to the se with the zipper foot about 3111 the teeth. Close the zip and open allowance on the other piece 0 the folded edge against the teeth pin. Sew 3 mm from the sew across the end of the zip to it, if you are inserting a zip in she, a nap fabric such as velvet, sew using a prick stitch.

For a lapped zip, use the same adjust stitching position as showing

FRILLS Ruffles or frills are used on cushions, curtains, bed drapes and loose covers. A single frill needs hemming or binding, whereas a double frill is a piece of fabric folded along its length and the right side of the fabric shows all the time. A single frill is preferable if you are using bulky fabrics. Calculate the depth of frill and either add allowances for a double hem and the gathered edge seam or double the required depth and seam allowance for a double frill.

Decide on the effect you want, then measure up for the length of the frill: one and a half to three times the length of the finished edge fullness. Sew two lines of gathering stitch and gather up the fullness to fit the edge. Pin and stitch in place - around the edge of a hem, for example, or inserted into a seam. For a frilled edge to a round cushion, join the fabric strip into a circle, gather and distribute the gathers evenly around the cushion piece. A double frill can be bound on the outside edge and the folded edge overlapped on to the cushion or curtain fabric. This frill can be applied after the rest of the sewing IS completed.

A pleated frill gives a crisp finish. To calculate the fabric length needed for the frill, measure around the cushion piece or along the curtain edge and multiply by three for the frill length. Include seam allowances for any joins. The frill can be hemmed or double. Mark the fabric length into 3 cm (1 * in) sections along its length. Make 6 cm (2   in) pleats and pin. Tack across the top of the pleats. Apply the frill as before. 

Interior designing and decoration tips and guidance- Making of Piping in fabric design

MAKING PIPING

Piping can be flat or corded, single or double. Cord for piping can be bought in many thicknesses, and you should choose your thickness carefully; a very heavy piping can look unwieldy on a light cotton cushion cover, for example. Join the strips of bias fabric together on the straight grain. The width of bias-cut fabric should be the circumference of your chosen cord plus two seam allowances. Check when you buy that the cord is preshrunk. If not, wash it before use if it is to be sewn on something you intend to launder. If you need to join the cord, unravel a little from both raw ends and intertwine them for about 2.5 cm (1 in).

Press the length of bias strip and wrap it around the piping cord, raw edges together. Hold in place with pins. Using the zipper foot on the machine, sew close to the cord with a similar colored thread. Lay the piping on the fabric, raw edges level. Pin and machine stitch close to the piping, covering the original seam line. Sew around comers as for welted borders. To join raw ends of piping, trim away the cord and overlap the ends of the binding, curving those inwards. Sew through all thicknesses. A quick method of applying piping to a square cushion is to fit the piping straight along each edge so that the ends cross at each corner. Sew through all the thicknesses and trim excess piping. 

APPLYING CORD TRIM Pin the cord in position, making sure the ends are not at a corner. Secure the thread in the fabric and sew through the cord and into the fabric with tiny stitches. Join the two ends of cord by unraveling a short length and inter- twining the strands. Stitch the twisted ends to the fabric.

 MITRI G BORDERS OR RIBBON

Cut a length of ribbon or binding for each edge to be trimmed, allowing a good overlap at each end. Attach the trimming to the right side of the fabric with pins along one edge. Stitch up to the inside corner point where you intend to turn the corner (1). Fold the trimming so you can stitch a diagonal line between the inner and outer edges of trimming (2). Clip the seam, press the trimming flat or turn binding to wrong side (3), and continue down the next edges of the fabric. it/ FRILLS Ruffles or frills are used on cushions, curtains, bed drapes and loose covers.

 A single frill needs hemming or binding, whereas a double frill is a piece of fabric folded along its length and the right side of the fabric shows all the time. A single frill is preferable if you are using bulky fabrics. Calculate the depth of frill and either adds allowances for a double hem and the gathered edge seam or double the required depth and seam allowance for a double frill.

Decide on the effect you want, then measure up for the length of the frill: one and a half to three times the length of the finished edge fullness. Sew two lines of gathering stitch and gather up the fullness to fit the edge. Pin and stitch in place- around the edge of a hem, for example, or inserted into a seam. For a frilled edge to a round cushion, join the fabric strip into a circle, gather and distribute the gathers evenly around the cushion piece. A double frill can be bound on the outside edge and the folded edge overlapped on to the cushion or curtain fabric. This frill can be applied after the rest of the sewing IS completed.

A pleated frill gives a crisp finish. To calculate the fabric length needed for the frill, measure around the cushion piece or along the curtain edge and multiply by three for the frill length. Include seam allowances for any joins. The frill can be hemmed or double. Mark the fabric length into 3cm sections along its length. Make 6 pleats and pin. Tack across the top of the pleats. Apply the frill as before. 

SEWING TECHNIQUES- INTERLINED CURTAINS-FINISHES & TRIMMINGS - Interior designing and decoration tips on SEWING

SEWING TECHNIQUES

 INTERLINED CURTAINS

For extra weight, lined curtains may be interlined. For interlining, you will need a panel of fabric for each curtain, the same size as the finished (ungathered) curtain, or slightly longer if you want to pad the hems for a fuller look.

Calculate the total quantity by dividing the total width of the curtain by the width of the interlining fabric, and multiplying the number of drops required to make up the panel by the finished length of the curtains. Interlining should be joined with a lapped or abutted seam. Join interlining to the curtain fabric with lock stitch (p. 196), so that the interlining is centered on the panel of fabric for the curtain. Treat the curtain fabric and interlining as a single piece of fabric to finish the curtain.

FINISHES & TRIMMINGS

There are many purchased finishes and trimmings used in home sewing. Ribbon, lace and braid are suitable for any seam which is straight but for curved seams and a truly professional finish, use bias-cut fabric.

CUTTING BIAS BINDING

 To find the bias of the fabric, fold it so that the selvedge is parallel with the weft or crosswise grain (1). Press this fold to give yourself the first cutting line. Now cut all the remaining bias strips parallel to this line to the desired width (2). To join strips, position ends together as shown, right sides facing, so that the edges of the strips match at the stitching line (3). Press seam open and trim away points of fabric after stitching.

 MITRING CORNERS To turn up a hem at a corner, you need to mitre the corner. Turn up the hems along both edges of fabric to the same width and press (1). Insert a pin at the edge of the fabric where the two hems intersect and open out again. Fold in the corner diagonally to meet the pins at both sides. Cut across the corner about 6 mm (i in) from the folded edge (2) and turn in the hems again, Slipstitch the corner edges together and finish the other hems with your chosen method (3).

This works with hems of unequal width, for example, on curtains. 

SEWING TECHNIQUES-MACHINE STITCHING- Types and procedures for interior designing and decoration

SEWING TECHNIQUES

MACHINE STITCHING

When working on the machine, refer to your manual before you sew furnishing fabrics. The manual will recommend needle sizes, tension and the correct foot to use. Always select the thread according to the type of work and material, and the needle according to the thread. A good tension is when the threads are locked together properly between the layers of fabric.

FINDING A STRAIGHT EDGE

To cut out any large piece of fabric, you need to start with a straight edge. This ensures that the fabric hangs true, on curtains, for example. For firmly woven fabrics, you can tear to get a straight edge. Cut into the selvedge and, grasping both sides, rip across the width. If the fabric is loose, pull out a crosswise thread right across the width and cut along this line. Alternatively, lay the selvedge up against the edge of a table and check that the crosswise grain is level with the end of the table. To measure off the first length, use a set square or a large object with a right-angled corner. Draw across the width of fabric with dressmaker's chalk and cut along this line. Cut out the rest of the lengths in the same way.

APPENDIX SEAMS

 A puckered or poorly finished seam will spoil the look of your soft furnishings. For example, the seams on full-length curtains need to be Rat and tidy or the whole effect will be ruined. Make sure there wedges are together before you sew so that the allowances are the same width; most seams are about 1.5cm wide. Everyone has a favorite method of holding the fabric while sewing; either tack or pin at regular intervals. If you insert the pins across the seam you can sew straight over them and remove them at the end of the sewing. Reverse the stitch at either end of the seam to secure the threads. After stitching, press seams open or to one side, as directed.

OVERCAST SEAM

This can be worked on the machine with a zigzag stitch or more laboriously by hand by taking an even diagonal stitch over the raw edge along the seam. If the fabric is likely to fray, use pinking shears or make a line of machine stitching about 3mm (A in) in from the edge.

CURVED SEAM Pin and stitch as usual but clip outward curves at intervals to ease the seam and cut V shapes along an inward curving scam. You can then press the seam open. This clipping also reduces bulk where the seam cannot be pressed open, as on a circular cushion.

CORNERS When sewing a regular corner, trim the seam allowance by cutting straight across the corner. To get a clear point on sharp corners when using thick fabrics, make two or three stitches across the turning point (1). Trim the seam allowance parallel to the seam line. To turn a corner on a welted or boxed cushion, clip into the welt at the corner point, reinforcing the corner with extra rows of stitching.

FLAT FELL SEAM

This is a very strong seam and perfect for home furnishings where wear and constant laundering could present problems. From the right side it looks like a top stitched seam. Sew an ordinary seam (1) and press the allowances to one side. Trim the underneath seam allowance to about 6 mm (  in) (2) and fold the top allowance over it, turning under the raw edge to enclose the trimmed edge (3). Pin and press Rat then sew through all layers close to the folded edge.

 FRENCH SEAM

This encloses the raw edges but because it can be bulky it is best on lightweight fabrics. It is particularly appropriate for lace and voile because turnings are narrow and don't show through the fabric. With wrong sides together, sew a narrow seam (1). Trim seam allowances (2), even if fabric doesn't fray, and fold along the machined edge with right sides together (3). Stitch along this seam about 1 cm from the seamed edge (4). 

LAPPED SEAM To match patterns from the right side of the fabric, turn under one edge of the fabric by 6 mm (t in) and pin in place over the other piece to be joined, matching patterns if necessary (1). On the right side of the fabric, pin and machine stitch along the fold (2) and then sew another seam parallel to the first to catch down the raw edge beneath (3). To join bulky widths of interlining overlap the raw edges by about 6 mm (i in) and machine stitch a line of zigzag down the length. Alternatively, butt the two raw edges together and hand sew down the length using a loose herringbone stitch (an abutted seam).

SEWING TECHNIQUES - interior designing and decoration - Tips to reduce your cost of labor and products

SEWING TECHNIQUES

STITCHES

The following techniques provide the basis for all soft furnishings. Some people prefer to use hand sewing because of the control this allows.

RUNNING STITCH 

This stitch is used mainly for gathering up fabric or as a tacking stitch. Secure the thread with a back stitch (see below) and sew small, evenly spaced stitches. If you are gathering, work two parallel rows about 6 mm (i in) apart and leave a length of thread at the end with which to gather up the fabric to the required length. Secure the threads to a pin in a figure of eight and adjust the gathers.

BACK STITCH 

This hand stitch is firm and looks like machine stitches on the right side; on the wrong side the stitches will overlap. Working from right to left, insert the needle about 3 mm (t in) behind the place where the thread came out and bring the needle out again the same distance in front of that point. Every time, insert the needle in the end of the last stitch.

PRICK STITCH

This is similar to back stitch but is less obtrusive. Instead of inserting the needle in the end of the previous stitch, you should only pick up a couple of threads on the right side so that the finished seam looks rather like tiny running threads with the stitches like tiny prick holes on the fabric. This stitch can be used to secure seam allowances. 

   

LOCK STITCHING

 This is rather like herringbone thread is left very loose bee purpose of this stitch is to see inter linings to the curtain fabric is necessary. Lay the fabric or wrong sides together, lay the lining in place over the curtain pins at regular intervals down from the top to the bottom oft: back the lining along the line the thread at the top, take a stitch folded lining and the curtain fling up only a couple of the stitch. Make the next stitch al; further along and bring the nee thread to produce a loop very loose.  

SLIP-TACKING

 This tacking stitch invisibly secures two folded edges or a facing. It is the perfect way to match patterns at a seam line before machine stitching. Fasten the thread within one of the folds and take over to the other edge picking up a 6 mm (i in) stitch. Cross over the opening again and continue, picking up fabric from just inside the fold.

HNIQUES PRICK STITCH

 This is similar to back stitch but is less obtrusive. Instead of inserting the needle in the end of the previous stitch, you should only pick up a couple of threads on the right side so that the finished seam looks rather like tiny running threads with the stitches like tiny prick holes on the fabric. This stitch can be used to secure seam allowances.

SLIP-TACKING

This tacking stitch invisibly secures two folded edges or a facing. It is the perfect way to match patterns at a seam line before machine stitching. Fasten the thread within one of the folds and take over to the other edge picking up a 6 mm (i in) stitch. Cross over the opening again and continue, picking up fabric from just inside the fold.

 LOCK STITCH

This is rather like herringbone stitch, but the thread is left very loose because the main purpose of this stitch is to secure linings and interlinings to the curtain fabric and some give is necessary. Lay the fabric out flat and with wrong sides together, lay the lining or inter- lining in place over the curtain. Secure with pins at regular intervals down a straight line from the top to the bottom of the curtain. Fold back the lining along the line of pins. Secure the thread at the top, take a stitch through the folded lining and the curtain fabric (1), picking up only a couple of threads with each stitch. Make the next stitch about 5 cm (2 in) further along and bring the needle out over the thread to produce a loop (2). Keep the thread very loose. Work vertical rows of lock stitch about every 60 cm so the lining doesn't sag.

SLIP STITCH

 This is used to stitch any folded edge. Working from right to left, take a tiny stitch in the main fabric and insert the needle immediately into the fold as close as possible to the previous stitch. Pull the thread through. This should be one continuous movement.

HERRINGBONE STITCH

This is a firm hemming stitch particularly appropriate for curtains; it doesn't need a folded hem because the raw edge is covered by the stitch. This is normally worked from left to right. Secure the thread and bring the needle up through the hem about 3 mm from the edge, take the needle diagonally across to make a backwards stitch in the curtain fabric just above the hem edge. Bring the needle diagonally back to the hem again and take a backwards stitch in the hem. Keep the thread fairly loose as you work. HEMMING STITCH Hemming should be done delicately with similar colored thread so that it is virtually invisible. Take a tiny stitch in the wrong side of the fabric and insert the needle diagonally under the folded hem about 6 mm away. Continue along the hem, keeping the tension even so there is no puckering seen from the right side.

BLANKET STITCH 

This stitch neatens raw edges on fabrics that don't fray, such as leather and felt. It can also be used as a decorative edge. Fasten the thread near to the fabric edge and, keeping the depth of stitch even, insert the needle at right angles to the edge of the fabric and bring it up and over the thread to form a loop stitch, Keeping the width of stitch constant, insert the needle into the fabric again so that the thread runs horizontally along the edge of the fabric.      

Interior MAKING ACCESSORIES PICTURES & WALL HANGINGS- Tips and guidance

MAKING ACCESSORIES PICTURES & WALL HANGINGS

Owning a modest number of pictures, prints and photographs brings a personal art gallery within your reach. Achieving a professional look is often a question of careful hanging, grouping and proportion. As with everything else, there are fashions in picture hanging. Traditional picture rails can be used to provide a more formal interior scheme. 

Camouflage picture cords with lengths of wide satin, moire or velvet ribbon or strips of glazed chintz. Large picture hooks can be hidden with generous opera bows or rosettes. Grouping Frames in the same colors and finishes give uniformity to a collection of differently-shaped pictures. Framing disparate subjects with the same color mounts also gives unity to a collection.

Another attractive way to group pictures is to revive the eighteenth-century practice of dividing a wall into picture panels using simple wood beading or wallpaper borders to 'frame' your pictures. A classical wallpaper border such as egg and dart molding on pale grey or yellow painted walls could be a perfect foil for a set of engravings with birds' eye maple frames. Similarly, a chinoiserie fretwork wallpaper border on red painted walls could enhance a set of Chinese paintings with black lacquer frames. Narrow wood beading picked out in a color or perhaps a stenciled acanthus motif could also make effective wall panels. 

Placing all the pictures and objects you intend to hang up on the floor is an easy way to plan the grouping. Move your groups of pictures around until you are satisfied and then stand away from them. You can also plan groups of pictures and objects successfully by sketching the shapes out carefully first on a piece of squared paper. When hanging pictures over a piece of furniture such as a sofa, bedhead, chest of drawers or a fireplace you will also need to consider how much space to leave above and below, both for practicality and visual effect.  

A PLEATED FABRIC SHADE - Interior designing and decoration tips

A PLEATED FABRIC SHADE 

Measure the circumference of the bottom ring on the shade and multiply by to give a slight fullness. Measure the height of the frame along one of the struts. Cut a rectangle of fabric to these measurements, adding 2 cm (i in) turnings all around. Cut strips of binding fabric as for the stiffened shade. Join the ends of the fabric with a 2 cm (i in) seam; trim and neaten the seam allowances and press open.

Working from the wrong side of the fabric, make a line of gathering stitches all around the top and lower edge of the fabric, picking up only a couple of threads of fabric and spacing the stitches. The exact spacing depends on the weight of the fabric and the amount of fullness that has to be taken in around the top ring. Divide the fabric into four equal sections and mark these points at the top and bottom. Slip the fabric over the frame, and hold in place with clothes pegs positioned so they are equally spaced around the frame. 

Draw up the gathering threads so that the fabric fits around the frame and neatly arrange the pleats that form, pressing them all in the same direction with your fingers. Pin the pleats to the taped frame, then oversaw the shade in place all around the top and bottom rings. Trim away the fabric close to the stitching, then stitch the binding over the rings and stitch in place by hand or glue over the rings.

A PLEATED PAPER LAMPSHADE - Interior designing and Decoration Tips to reduce the cost of interiors

BINDING THE FRAME 

 By binding the frame with tap can be stitched to the Iamb shade narrow, firmly woven tape cotton. If you follow the orc will only have to secure one with stitching. . . When the whole frame is bend of the tape under the last 1, and stitch it in place to give a frill.

SHADES A PLEATED PAPER LAMPSHADE 

A simple shade should be made from stiff card. You can buy plain colors from art shops, but if you want to use a pattern (wrapping paper or wallpaper, for example) to blend with other furnishings, use lightweight white card and paste the patterned paper to it. t Measure the circumference of the lowering and multiply by 1  -2, depending on the fullness required. Measure a vertical strut, and add 2.5cm for a slight overhang at the top and bottom of the shade. Cut a piece of stiffened patterned paper to these dimensions.

Decide on a suitable size for the pleats: 12 mm will suit most frames, but you may want to make the pleats smaller for very small shades. Mark the pleat fold lines vertically down the card lightly in pencil, working across the width of the panel. Use the back of the blade of a pair of scissors to score the card: score every other fold line on the right side of the shade, then turn over and score the alternate lines on the back of the card. 

Fold the card concertina-wise, following the scored lines: this is easier if you use a metal rule as a guide, folding the card crisply over the ruler. 3 Trim the end folds (or waste) so that you can lap one end nearly over the other, and glue in place. 4 Use a fine punch to make holes in the pleats, 12 mm from the upper edge of the card, centering the holes between the fold lines.

Thread cord or ribbon through the holes. Fit the shade over the frame and draw up the cord. Tie the ends in a decorative bow, or fasten ends together inconspicuously inside the shade. 5 To hold the shade to the frame, use a strong thread to stitch over the cord and the frame between each pleat. You can finish the lower edge in the same way for a firmly fitted shade.

BINDING THE FRAME

By binding the frame with tape, a fabric cover can be stitched to the lampshade frame. Use a narrow, firmly woven tape in unbleached cotton. If you follow the order shown, you will only have to secure one end of the tape with stitching. When the whole frame is bound, tuck one end of the tape under the last loop, turn under and stitch it in place to give a firm finish.

STIFFENED FABRIC SHADE For a crisp effect stiffens the fabric with heavy iron-on woven interfacing (buckram). Binding in a contrasting color gives a neat finish.

Use the frame to draw a paper pattern for the shade; mark a straight line the same length as a strut and position the strut along it. Then roll the frame over the paper, marking the position of each ring as you go with a series of dots. Join the dots to make smooth curves. Allow a 2 mm (! in) overlap at the end. Cut the pattern out and check that it fits before cutting out the shade in two pieces, allowing a single overlap on each piece. Cut iron-on interfacing to the size of the paper pattern and the fabric with a 6 mm turning all round. Cut bias strips 2 cm wide, plus 6 mm turning down each edge, and long enough to go around each ring plus a turning at each end. Press turnings under. Fuse the fabric to the interfacing, leaving the turnings free.

Position the binding around the top and bottom of the panel so that the raw edge of the binding is 12 mm (} in) from the edge of the panel and stitch in place on the fold line of the binding. Wrap the turning of fabric over the stiffening and fit the shade over the frame. Glue the overlap in place. Slip stitch the fold of the fabric to the bound frame all around and Fold under the opposite edge of the binding and turn under the ends so that they meet neatly. Wrap the binding over the frame and slip stitch or glue in place. 

Making of Lampshades - do it yourself tips on interior designing and decoration

ACCESSORIES MAKING LAMPSHADES

These styles are for simple frames: you can buy them ready to cover, or strip the covers off old shades that are the right shape but the wrong color for the base and the room scheme. For the techniques shown here, you will need conical or coolie shapes, with a suitable fitting to hold the shade on the lamp. If you are buying a frame, it is a good idea to choose plastic-coated wire, which will not rust.

1 A PLEATED PAPER LAMPSHADE A simple shade should be made from stiff card. You can buy plain colors from art shops, but if you want to use a pattern (wrapping paper or wallpaper, for example) to blend with other furnishings, use lightweight white card and paste the patterned paper to it. 

1   Ensure the circumference of the lower nng and multiply by 1 !-2, depending on the fullness required. Measure a vertical strut, and add 2.5cm(1 in) for a slight overhang at the top and bottom of the shade. Cut a piece of stiffened patterned paper to these dimensions. 

2 Decide on a suitable size for the pleats: 12 mm (! in) will suit most frames, but you may want to make the pleats smaller for very small shades. Mark the pleat fold lines vertically down the card lightly in pencil, working across the width of the panel. Use the back of the blade of a pair of scissors to score the card: score every other fold line on the right side of the shade, then turn over and score the alternate lines on the back of the card. Fold the card concertina-v the scored lines: this is easier if rule as a guide, folding the ca the ruler.

 3 Trim the end folds (or wa can lap one end neatly ove glue in place. 

4 Use a fine punch to mal pleats, 12 mm (! in) from of the card, centering the holes b lines. Thread cord or ribbon holes. Fit the shade over the f up the cord. Tie the ends in a d or fasten ends together in cons the shade. 5 To hold the shade to the strong thread to stitch OVI the frame between each pleat, the lower edge in the same w fitted shade. 

Pleated paper shades in Interior designing and decoration minimize the costs - Interior designing tips and guidance

 Paper shades 

Pleated paper shades are easy to make and, depending on the paper, look right in almost any scheme. Plain white or colored card, marbled papers, scraps of wallpaper and decorative wrapping papers backed on to white card can be threaded through with fine cord or narrow ribbon to great effect. Other card lamp shades you can make yourself are simple drum or coolie shapes taped over a wire frame. A pretty nineteenth-century idea due for a revival is to cut out a simple floral motif in white paper to make a small shade for a wall fitting or bedside lamp. A hand-painted or stenciled border pattern, inspired perhaps by a motif from a furnishing fabric or wallpaper in the room and applied to the edge of a ready-made plain coolie shade adds a personal touch.  

Stenciled Pleat edges can give individual blend happily traditional an, decorative sch. lampshade the a variety of designing. From the tall c jar base showy squat spherical candlestick st} Something old, something new It is also worth hunting around junk shops for small marbled, opaque and painted glass lamp shades which look wonderfully atmospheric in small bedrooms. Reproduction glass lampshades and bases are also a good investment - rustic candle holders, Victorian and Art Nouveau oil lamps with glass shades wired for electricity and grand gilt Corinthian column lamp bases with patterned glass and paper drum shades. 

Painted metal and card lamp shades in dark green, claret red and black look good on traditionally styled wall light and chandelier fittings; these are eminently suitable for modern studies, libraries and dining rooms that are styled with a touch of tradition. The pleated and bound Fabric shade is a traditional look for bedrooms and living rooms. Fine chiffon J silk or cotton in plain white J cream or pastel colors are the Fabrics that work best with this style.

RIGHT Wall-fixed lamp brackets such as these can take a number of different shade styles but small card or metal coolie shades give fittings a modern look that is still in keeping with more traditionally styled dining rooms J studies and hallway schemes.

Covering Furniture and other interior products and accessories with latest cost effective ideas - Interior tips and design and ecoration

COVERING

A Box cut a piece of wadding to fit the top of the box. Stick it in place with fabric glue at each corner. Measure the top of the box and to each dimension, add twice the depth of the sides of the lid, plus a total of2.5cm for turning. Cut a piece of fabric to these measurements. Position the lid upside down centrally on the wrong side of the fabric. Mark the position of the box. Mark a point measuring 6 mm (l in) diagonally outwards from each corner. 

Cut out a square of fabric at each corner, following the position of the marked point. Snip to the corner of the lid. Press under the narrow turning. Position the lid on the fabric again and turn up the sides. Glue in place, and then turn the sides to the inside of the box and glue. 2 Cut a piece of felt or wallpaper to the internal dimensions of the lid plus the depth of the sides all round.

 Mark the internal dimensions on the wrong side of the fabric or paper. Cut a square out of each corner, in line with the marked lines. Fit the lining into the lid and glue in place. Repeat this method to cover the base of the box, omitting the wadding. If the lid fits too snugly to turn the edge of the fabric over the inside of the box, trim it to fit neatly around the outside and finish by covering the raw edge with ribbon or braid, glued in place. 

If you are working on a hinged, flat- topped box, remove the hinges and cover each part of the box separately. Attach a piece of the ribbon or a fabric loop to the front of the lid to make a handle to open the box.

COVERING A SCREEN Take the hinges off the screen and cover each panel separately. Measure each frame of the screen. If it has a shaped top, cut a paper template. To save sewing a cover, cut each fabric panel slightly larger than the frame and wrap each panel over the edge, stapling in place. Cover the raw edges and staples with decorative braid, held with decorative brass upholstery tacks, small-headed tacks or glue. 

To sew a Screen cover, with a gusset, measure the depth of the screen and make up a strip of fabric to fit all around the sides and top of the frame, allowing 12 mm along the sides, and 5cm(2 in) at each end. Cut a panel of fabric for each side of the frame, allowing 12 mm turnings all round and 5cm(2 in) along the lower edge. Pin the gusset fabric in place up the sides and across the top of the fabric panels. Tack in place. Clip into the seam allowance at the corners, and then stitch the gusset. Press the seam allowances towards the gusset.

 Then turn right side out. 2 Slip the cover over the frame of the screen and wrap the ends of the gusset inwards. The cover should be stretched tightly over the screen; check for any puckering. Turn under a narrow turning along the lower edge, wrap it over the other raw edge and hold in place with tacks or staples. Repeat for the remaining panels. Replace the hinges . 

BOXE 1 ACCESSORIES LAMPSHADES Many modern lamp fittings look good in traditional settings: ceramic or wooden candlestick bases with card or fabric shades are readily available in an increasing range of colors and styles. Pick a lampshade and base that suit the style and scale of the room: ceramic lamp bases in traditional gInger jar shapes now come in a huge range of richly colored glazes to blend or match almost any paint color and fabric.

 Team bases like these with plain cream or white fabric, or card coolie shades for country house and traditional town house living rooms; pleated fine cottons and silk druin shades also look elegant here. Smaller versions of coolie or drum shades in cottagey flower prints teamed with simple wooden or round ceramic bases lend a cosy touch to informal sitting rooms and bedrooms. Shiny black coolie card shades teamed with clean cylindrical or spherical bases in matching black, cream or terracotta look good in modern living rooms; Chinese pierced ceramic bases with special silk shades complement eastern-looking room schemes perfectly.