SEWING
TECHNIQUES
STITCHES
The following techniques
provide the basis for all soft furnishings. Some people prefer to use hand
sewing because of the control this allows.
RUNNING STITCH
This stitch
is used mainly for gathering up fabric or as a tacking stitch. Secure the
thread with a back stitch (see below) and sew small, evenly spaced stitches. If
you are gathering, work two parallel rows about 6 mm (i in) apart and leave a
length of thread at the end with which to gather up the fabric to the required
length. Secure the threads to a pin in a figure of eight and adjust the
gathers.
BACK STITCH
This hand stitch
is firm and looks like machine stitches on the right side; on the wrong side
the stitches will overlap. Working from right to left, insert the needle about
3 mm (t in) behind the place where the thread came out and bring the needle out
again the same distance in front of that point. Every time, insert the needle
in the end of the last stitch.
PRICK STITCH
This is similar to
back stitch but is less obtrusive. Instead of inserting the needle in the end of
the previous stitch, you should only pick up a couple of threads on the right
side so that the finished seam looks rather like tiny running threads with the
stitches like tiny prick holes on the fabric. This stitch can be used to secure
seam allowances.
LOCK
This is rather like herringbone thread is left
very loose bee purpose of this stitch is to see inter linings to the curtain
fabric is necessary. Lay the fabric or wrong sides together, lay the lining in
place over the curtain pins at regular intervals down from the top to the
bottom oft: back the lining along the line the thread at the top, take a stitch
folded lining and the curtain fling up only a couple of the stitch. Make the
next stitch al; further along and bring the nee thread to produce a loop very
loose.
SLIP-TACKING
This tacking stitch invisibly secures two
folded edges or a facing. It is the perfect way to match patterns at a seam
line before machine stitching. Fasten the thread within one of the folds and
take over to the other edge picking up a 6 mm (i in) stitch. Cross over the
opening again and continue, picking up fabric from just inside the fold.
HNIQUES PRICK STITCH
This is similar to back stitch but is less
obtrusive. Instead of inserting the needle in the end of the previous stitch,
you should only pick up a couple of threads on the right side so that the
finished seam looks rather like tiny running threads with the stitches like tiny
prick holes on the fabric. This stitch can be used to secure seam allowances.
SLIP-TACKING
This tacking stitch
invisibly secures two folded edges or a facing. It is the perfect way to match
patterns at a seam line before machine stitching. Fasten the thread within one
of the folds and take over to the other edge picking up a 6 mm (i in) stitch.
Cross over the opening again and continue, picking up fabric from just inside
the fold.
LOCK STITCH
This is rather like
herringbone stitch, but the thread is left very loose because the main purpose
of this stitch is to secure linings and interlinings to the curtain fabric and
some give is necessary. Lay the fabric out flat and with wrong sides together,
lay the lining or inter- lining in place over the curtain. Secure with pins at
regular intervals down a straight line from the top to the bottom of the
curtain. Fold back the lining along the line of pins. Secure the thread at the
top, take a stitch through the folded lining and the curtain fabric (1),
picking up only a couple of threads with each stitch. Make the next stitch
about 5 cm (2 in) further along and bring the needle out over the thread to
produce a loop (2). Keep the thread very loose. Work vertical rows of
lock stitch about every 60 cm so the lining doesn't sag.
SLIP STITCH
This is used to stitch any folded edge.
Working from right to left, take a tiny stitch in the main fabric and insert
the needle immediately into the fold as close as possible to the previous
stitch. Pull the thread through. This should be one continuous movement.
HERRINGBONE STITCH
This is a firm hemming
stitch particularly appropriate for curtains; it doesn't need a folded hem
because the raw edge is covered by the stitch. This is normally worked from
left to right. Secure the thread and bring the needle up through the hem about
3 mm from the edge, take the needle diagonally across to make a backwards
stitch in the curtain fabric just above the hem edge. Bring the needle
diagonally back to the hem again and take a backwards stitch in the hem. Keep
the thread fairly loose as you work. HEMMING STITCH Hemming should be done
delicately with similar colored thread so that it is virtually invisible. Take
a tiny stitch in the wrong side of the fabric and insert the needle diagonally
under the folded hem about 6 mm away. Continue along the hem, keeping the
tension even so there is no puckering seen from the right side.
BLANKET STITCH
This stitch
neatens raw edges on fabrics that don't fray, such as leather and felt. It can
also be used as a decorative edge. Fasten the thread near to the fabric edge
and, keeping the depth of stitch even, insert the needle at right angles to the
edge of the fabric and bring it up and over the thread to form a loop stitch,
Keeping the width of stitch constant, insert the needle into the fabric again
so that the thread runs horizontally along the edge of the fabric.
