SEWING TECHNIQUES
MACHINE STITCHING
When working on the machine,
refer to your manual before you sew furnishing fabrics. The manual will
recommend needle sizes, tension and the correct foot to use. Always select the
thread according to the type of work and material, and the needle according to
the thread. A good tension is when the threads are locked together properly
between the layers of fabric.
FINDING A STRAIGHT EDGE
To cut out any large piece
of fabric, you need to start with a straight edge. This ensures that the fabric
hangs true, on curtains, for example. For firmly woven fabrics, you can tear to
get a straight edge. Cut into the selvedge and, grasping both sides, rip across
the width. If the fabric is loose, pull out a crosswise thread right across the
width and cut along this line. Alternatively, lay the selvedge up against the
edge of a table and check that the crosswise grain is level with the end of the
table. To measure off the first length, use a set square or a large object with
a right-angled corner. Draw across the width of fabric with dressmaker's chalk
and cut along this line. Cut out the rest of the lengths in the same way.
APPENDIX SEAMS
A puckered or
poorly finished seam will spoil the look of your soft furnishings. For example,
the seams on full-length curtains need to be Rat and tidy or the whole effect
will be ruined. Make sure there wedges are together before you sew so that the
allowances are the same width; most seams are about 1.5cm wide. Everyone has a favorite
method of holding the fabric while sewing; either tack or pin at regular
intervals. If you insert the pins across the seam you can sew straight over
them and remove them at the end of the sewing. Reverse the stitch at either end
of the seam to secure the threads. After stitching, press seams open or to one
side, as directed.
OVERCAST SEAM
This can be worked on the
machine with a zigzag stitch or more laboriously by hand by taking an even
diagonal stitch over the raw edge along the seam. If the fabric is likely to
fray, use pinking shears or make a line of machine stitching about 3mm (A in)
in from the edge.
CURVED SEAM Pin and stitch
as usual but clip outward curves at intervals to ease the seam and cut V shapes
along an inward curving scam. You can then press the seam open. This clipping
also reduces bulk where the seam cannot be pressed open, as on a circular
cushion.
CORNERS When sewing a
regular corner, trim the seam allowance by cutting straight across the corner.
To get a clear point on sharp corners when using thick fabrics, make two or
three stitches across the turning point (1). Trim the seam allowance parallel
to the seam line. To turn a corner on a welted or boxed cushion, clip into the
welt at the corner point, reinforcing the corner with extra rows of stitching.
FLAT FELL SEAM
This is a very strong seam
and perfect for home furnishings where wear and constant laundering could
present problems. From the right side it looks like a top stitched seam. Sew an
ordinary seam (1) and press the allowances to one side. Trim the underneath
seam allowance to about 6 mm ( in) (2)
and fold the top allowance over it, turning under the raw edge to enclose the
trimmed edge (3). Pin and press Rat then sew through all layers close to the
folded edge.
FRENCH SEAM
This encloses the raw edges
but because it can be bulky it is best on lightweight fabrics. It is
particularly appropriate for lace and voile because turnings are narrow and
don't show through the fabric. With wrong sides together, sew a narrow seam
(1). Trim seam allowances (2), even if fabric doesn't fray, and fold along the
machined edge with right sides together (3). Stitch along this seam about 1 cm
from the seamed edge (4).
LAPPED SEAM To match patterns from the right side of
the fabric, turn under one edge of the fabric by 6 mm (t in) and pin in place
over the other piece to be joined, matching patterns if necessary (1). On the
right side of the fabric, pin and machine stitch along the fold (2) and then
sew another seam parallel to the first to catch down the raw edge beneath (3).
To join bulky widths of interlining overlap the raw edges by about 6 mm (i in)
and machine stitch a line of zigzag down the length. Alternatively, butt the
two raw edges together and hand sew down the length using a loose herringbone
stitch (an abutted seam).
